This last stretch has been characterized by ups and downs (pun intended). From 4000 foot climbs to 7000 foot descents, from 38 degree nights to 104 degree days, from laying on the ground, never wanting to move to running to get cheeseburgers and shakes within the same hour, from a group of nine to a group of three.

Gobuke (Addison), Florian, Johanna, and I left Idyllwild and began to climb through a pine forest, very eventually summitting San Jacinto, a 10,896 foot mountain. It took a while to get there, the elevation slowing our progress, either because of elevation change or just that it was steep. Probably both. The summit was incredible. I could see for miles and miles.

That night, we slept at about 8000 feet and watched the sunset from a rock formation by our tents. The next day, we started the longest continuous descent of the entire PCT, losing 7000 feet of elevation (but passing 200 miles!).

At the end of it, my feet, knees, and shoulders were loudly protesting. We laid on the ground at the bottom of the mountain and I vowed to never walk again. About an hour later, I was running to meet an Uber to take us to In-N-Out for burgers, fries, and shakes. We scared the driver, calling her out to the desert and running out of the darkness at her. I was surprised that she didn’t drive away, because she said she thought we were going to murder her. That’s job dedication for you. After gorging ourselves, we took another Uber back to camp. I cowboy camped that night (slept in sleeping bag with no tent) and the stars were amazing. Ups and downs. And ups again.

The next day, Gobuke’s mom, Lillian, and her partner, Anna, picked us up and took us to Starbucks, then paid for all of our breakfasts, then took us to an outdoor store, a pharmacy, and again back to Starbucks, to wait out the heat of the day. I almost cried, saying goodbye, because they were so good to us. It was like spending time with my own mom. Then I almost cried because it was ONE HUNDRED AND FOUR DEGREES when we started out again.

I was immediately dripping with sweat and I had to walk a lot slower than normally, feeling as though I was overheating. Gobuke and I stopped at a sign that said “Water and shade,” but it looked more like “Promised land” to me. After cold (COLD!) water and a rest, we continued up a long and steep hill, over which was an amazing view of the San Bernadino Mountains. Johanna and I got to camp after dark and were rewarded with actual toilets at the campsite. Sweet bliss.

The next day dawned and we stayed close to Mission Creek all day, and never had to carry more than 2 liters of water. Without the usual 4 plus liters in my pack, I made it to camp feeling awesome. I had none of the knee pain I’d expected after the tougher terrain we’d had the last few days.

I have a feeling that the ups and downs will continue. The trail has a way of breaking you down and then flying you high, with candy and soda and surprise views and angels. It’s been said many times before, but the trail is like a long, painful, beautiful, slow, foot-powered roller coaster. It’s a roller coaster of actual travel and emotional growth. Here’s to the ups and downs of the PCT.

*Since it’s been so long since the last post (sorry!), I’ll split this last section into two posts. I’m at mile 369, but this post only goes up to mile 235.